Skopje Unveiled - Stories, Cevapi, and the Soul of a City
An Englishman in the Balkans Archive 2013-2025
05/18/25
•11m
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A City of Surprises
Skopje wasn’t what I expected, and that’s what made it so special. Over three days, I explored the North Macedonian capital, peeling back its layers like pages in an old, weathered book. This episode of An Englishman in the Balkans is a personal reflection of that journey. Part travelogue, part cultural postcard.
A Bite of Tradition
One stop I couldn’t miss was Destan, a traditional restaurant tucked into the old Čaršija, the Ottoman-era heart of the city. Half a somun, chopped onions, a fiercely roasted pepper, and a bottle of old-fashioned Coca-Cola. No frills, just flavour. And somehow, in that simple dish of local Ćevapi, I felt welcomed. It’s food that speaks the language of belonging.
Skopje, Through Local Eyes
The city’s energy really came alive when I sat down with my friend Risto. His stories gave context to what I’d seen. The Stone Bridge, the juxtaposition of brutalist architecture with neoclassical facades, the slow mornings over coffee and rakija. Skopje is a city of contrasts, but its heartbeat remains constant: community, resilience, and quiet pride.
The Rhythm Beneath the Surface
There’s something about Skopje that lingers. It’s in the buzz of the cafés, the calm of the Vardar River, and the casual kindness of strangers. Despite the cranes and construction, the soul of the city, its rhythm, hasn’t changed. And that’s what I’ll take with me.
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This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe
This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe
Previous Episode
Zenica Uncovered: Beyond Smoke and Steel
May 11, 2025
•14m
In this episode, I take you on an unexpected journey to Zenica, a city long overshadowed by its industrial past, where, alongside Tamara and our guests, we uncover rich stories, unforgettable flavours, and a surprising sense of beauty hidden in plain sight.
Not Just a City on the Way to Somewhere Else
For years, Zenica was little more than a name on a road sign to me. A blur on the highway between here and there. A city with a reputation steeped in industry, smoke, and steel. But as Tamara and I recently discovered, alongside our visiting friends, Chris and Jake, Zenica is far more than its past. What started as a spontaneous day trip turned into a surprisingly rich experience that challenged my assumptions and opened my eyes
Starting with Ćevapi – As You Should
No journey in Bosnia is truly underway until you’ve eaten something local. In Zenica, that meant tucking into a plate of their signature ćevapi. Served with a pillowy flatbread and tangy local yogurt, it was, quite honestly, one of the best versions I’ve had in the country. Even Tamara, a born-and-bred Banjalučanka with a discerning palate, agreed, it was a culinary highlight that set the tone for the day.
Walking Through Architectural Time
With our appetites satisfied, we walked the streets and started noticing the layers. Brutalist blocks from the Yugoslav era stood shoulder to shoulder with Austro-Hungarian touches, each building a chapter in Zenica’s evolving story. One moment you’re under stark concrete slabs, the next you’re admiring delicate archways and tiled roofs. And then, a mosque, simple, elegant, and peacefully commanding.A moment of serenity nestled within the industrial skeleton.
Echoes of Coal and Steel
Zenica was once powered by coal mines and steel production. Today, those elements linger as both memory and monument. We passed abandoned shafts and aging structures, listening to stories about pit ponies and life underground. There’s beauty to be found in the decay if you’re willing to look.
Tamara, reflecting on her own memories of the Yugoslav era, felt the weight and pride of that industrial legacy. Something hard-earned and deeply rooted.
The Stadium and the Spirit
One of the unexpected emotional beats of the day was stepping onto the turf at NK Ćeliks Stadium.
Ćelik is Zenicas football team, and the stadium is used by Bosnia and Herzegovinas national team, when playing “at home”.You could sense the pride, the passion. For Tamara, it was more than sport, it was identity, unity, and hope all rolled into one open field.
Up on the Hill, Looking Down
Later, we made our way up to a Partisan memorial overlooking the city. With mist curling through the trees and the valley spread beneath us, I launched the drone and took in a sweeping view that told a thousand stories. From above, the industrial sprawl softens, and Zenica’s layers come into focus, beauty and resilience holding equal weight.
Zenica, Reframed
I left Zenica with a completely different perspective. It’s not just a relic of heavy industry. It’s a place where history breathes through architecture, food, football, and community. A city full of contrasts, yes, but also full of life.
If you’ve ever overlooked a place based on reputation alone, maybe it’s time to take that detour. It just might surprise you, too.
Let’s Keep the Conversation Going
Have you visited Zenica or another place that turned out to be more than you expected? I’d love to hear your stories—drop a comment below or reach out on social. And if you enjoyed this post, consider subscribing for more reflections from the road less travelled.
This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe
Next Episode
Beyond the Balkans
July 2, 2025
•18m
A Little Dutch Detour: Reflections from Haarlem
Hello from the village in Bosnia and Herzegovina! Today, I want to take you on a small detour, far from the familiar rhythms of Balkan village life and into the heart of the Netherlands. Every now and then, Tamara and I like to step outside our beloved Bosnia, explore somewhere new, and bring those experiences back home with us. This time, our wandering feet took us to Haarlem, a city that completely surprised us in the most delightful ways.
Arriving in a Living Painting
Our journey started in true slow-travel fashion: a bus from Banja Luka to Zagreb, an overnight stop, and then an early flight to Amsterdam. From Schiphol Airport, my brother-in-law picked us up, and we hopped on a local bus to Haarlem. We always choose the bus when we can, it’s slower, but it lets you soak in the scenery and ease gently into a new place.
Stepping into Haarlem felt like walking into a living painting. Picture narrow streets lined with leaning old houses, flower boxes overflowing, and shimmering canals reflecting the soft northern light. It’s about the same size as Banja Luka, but with a different energy. Elegant, easygoing, and deeply historic.
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Discovering Dutch Ways
For Tamara, it was her first time in the Netherlands. She found herself enchanted by the details: the benches in front of each house, the hidden gardens, and the easy smiles from passersby. One thing that stood out immediately was the bicycle culture. Everyone cycles, from school kids and parents carrying toddlers to pensioners riding electric tricycles. We even saw a pensioner being pushed along in a sort of “bicycle wheelbarrow” contraption!
Crossing the street was a mini adventure itself. You had to watch out not only for cars but for the army of speedy cyclists zooming past. And let me tell you, it’s easier to get knocked over by a bike there than a car!
Life on the Water
Haarlem’s canals truly stole our hearts. Boats drift by with families dining on deck, friends clinking glasses under the bridges, and couples lazily cruising at sunset.Tamara was completely taken by this “canal culture”. If she had to pick one must-do, it would be renting a boat and gliding through the waterways, watching Haarlem unfold from the waterline.
We also loved seeing the bridges lift for huge cargo ships, marvelling at the captains’ skills as they manoeuvred these massive vessels through narrow passages. Life in Haarlem felt deeply intertwined with its water, adding a beautiful, living rhythm to the city.
Unexpected Highlights
While the canals and bikes were highlights for Tamara, three things left a big impression on me. First, the classic windmill. Nno visit to the Netherlands feels complete without one. Second, the grand cathedral where both Mozart and Handel once played; stepping inside felt like stepping into a piece of music history. And third, the old prison transformed into a creative hub with a university, cinema, and co-working spaces. The Dutch truly know how to breathe new life into old places, recycling not just materials but entire buildings.
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A Return to Roots
Standing on the North Sea coast at Zaandvoort, feeling the chilly wind and hearing the gulls, I realised how much travel changes us. Each journey brings new colours and textures to the life we return to. By the time we said goodbye to my sister and brother-in-law and boarded our bus back to the airport, we carried back not just heavier bags but new stories and reflections that will become part of our life here in Bosnia.
Staying Curious
I share these travel “postcards” not to drift away from Bosnia, but to remind myself, and maybe you too, that curiosity doesn’t stop at any border. If you ever find yourself in the Netherlands, skip the crowded streets of Amsterdam and wander through Haarlem instead. Rent a boat, sip Jenever (the grandfather of gin), and get lost in the hidden corners.
Have you visited somewhere that changed how you see your own home? I’d love to hear about it.Thank you for tuning in to An Englishman in the Balkans.
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