Zenica Uncovered: Beyond Smoke and Steel
An Englishman in the Balkans
05/11/25
•14m
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In this episode, I take you on an unexpected journey to Zenica, a city long overshadowed by its industrial past, where, alongside Tamara and our guests, we uncover rich stories, unforgettable flavours, and a surprising sense of beauty hidden in plain sight.
Not Just a City on the Way to Somewhere Else
For years, Zenica was little more than a name on a road sign to me. A blur on the highway between here and there. A city with a reputation steeped in industry, smoke, and steel. But as Tamara and I recently discovered, alongside our visiting friends, Chris and Jake, Zenica is far more than its past. What started as a spontaneous day trip turned into a surprisingly rich experience that challenged my assumptions and opened my eyes
Starting with Ćevapi – As You Should
No journey in Bosnia is truly underway until you’ve eaten something local. In Zenica, that meant tucking into a plate of their signature ćevapi. Served with a pillowy flatbread and tangy local yogurt, it was, quite honestly, one of the best versions I’ve had in the country. Even Tamara, a born-and-bred Banjalučanka with a discerning palate, agreed, it was a culinary highlight that set the tone for the day.
Walking Through Architectural Time
With our appetites satisfied, we walked the streets and started noticing the layers. Brutalist blocks from the Yugoslav era stood shoulder to shoulder with Austro-Hungarian touches, each building a chapter in Zenica’s evolving story. One moment you’re under stark concrete slabs, the next you’re admiring delicate archways and tiled roofs. And then, a mosque, simple, elegant, and peacefully commanding.A moment of serenity nestled within the industrial skeleton.
Echoes of Coal and Steel
Zenica was once powered by coal mines and steel production. Today, those elements linger as both memory and monument. We passed abandoned shafts and aging structures, listening to stories about pit ponies and life underground. There’s beauty to be found in the decay if you’re willing to look.
Tamara, reflecting on her own memories of the Yugoslav era, felt the weight and pride of that industrial legacy. Something hard-earned and deeply rooted.
The Stadium and the Spirit
One of the unexpected emotional beats of the day was stepping onto the turf at NK Ćeliks Stadium.
Ćelik is Zenicas football team, and the stadium is used by Bosnia and Herzegovinas national team, when playing “at home”.You could sense the pride, the passion. For Tamara, it was more than sport, it was identity, unity, and hope all rolled into one open field.
Up on the Hill, Looking Down
Later, we made our way up to a Partisan memorial overlooking the city. With mist curling through the trees and the valley spread beneath us, I launched the drone and took in a sweeping view that told a thousand stories. From above, the industrial sprawl softens, and Zenica’s layers come into focus, beauty and resilience holding equal weight.
Zenica, Reframed
I left Zenica with a completely different perspective. It’s not just a relic of heavy industry. It’s a place where history breathes through architecture, food, football, and community. A city full of contrasts, yes, but also full of life.
If you’ve ever overlooked a place based on reputation alone, maybe it’s time to take that detour. It just might surprise you, too.
Let’s Keep the Conversation Going
Have you visited Zenica or another place that turned out to be more than you expected? I’d love to hear your stories—drop a comment below or reach out on social. And if you enjoyed this post, consider subscribing for more reflections from the road less travelled.
This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe
This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe
Previous Episode
Exploring Hidden Gems in Bosnia and Herzegovina
May 4, 2025
•32m
Welcome to An Englishman in the Balkans, the podcast where I, share my experiences of life in Bosnia and Herzegovina as a British expat.
Join me as I explore the culture, history, food, and everyday life in this fascinating country. From hidden travel gems and local traditions to expat life insights, each episode offers a first-hand perspective on what it’s like to live, travel, and immerse yourself in the Balkans.
Whether you’re curious about Bosnia, planning a visit, or considering moving abroad, this podcast is your guide to discovering the authentic side of the region, through engaging stories, interviews, and personal reflections.
Coffee and Rakija is a reader/listener/viewer -supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free paid subscriber.
In this episode, I sit down with Aleksandra Drinić, a tourism expert working within Bosnia and Herzegovina, to explore the evolving landscape of travel and tourism in this often-overlooked corner of Europe.
Together, we discuss the transformation the country has seen over the past few decades, the challenges and opportunities shaping the tourism sector today, and what makes Bosnia and Herzegovina such a rewarding destination for curious, open-minded travellers.
From breathtaking nature to deep-rooted traditions, Aleksandra shares insights into the country’s strengths, the role of sustainable tourism, and why Bosnia is increasingly being seen as a rising star for those looking beyond the usual travel map.
If you’ve ever wondered what Bosnia and Herzegovina truly offers, not just to tourists, but to communities building toward a positive future, this conversation is a must-listen.
A Journey Through Time and Heritage
In a world constantly seeking the new and exciting, Bosnia and Herzegovina emerges as a relatively undiscovered gem on the international tourism map. I recently had the opportunity to sit down with Aleksandra Drinić, a seasoned professional with over two decades of experience in tourism sector development, to discuss the country's evolving landscape as a travel destination.Aleksandra, who has extensive experience working with both international and local organisations in public relations and communication, shared her personal journey through the tourism sector. From studying abroad in the UK to her recent role as director for the northern region of Bosnia and Herzegovina with the USAID Tourism Project, Aleksandra has seen first-hand the rapid evolution of the country's tourism profile.One of the key aspects that sets Bosnia and Herzegovina apart, according to Aleksandra, is its incredible cultural heritage. She emphasises the importance of this heritage not just as a decorative backdrop, but as a driver for economic development. Initiatives such as the promotion of traditional river boats, like the "dajak," illustrate how cultural artefacts can become thriving tourism attractions, sparking local interest and fostering community pride.
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The Appeal of the Undiscovered
"What makes Bosnia and Herzegovina so special?" I asked Aleksandra."The greatest strength, besides the stunning nature and landscapes, is the warmth of the local residents," she replied. "They offer a genuine and unpretentious hospitality that is hard to find elsewhere. Visitors often leave with memorable experiences not just of places, but of the people they've met."Historically, international perceptions of Bosnia and Herzegovina have been overshadowed by the conflicts of the 1990s. Yet, as Aleksandra notes, it's a ‘fully undiscovered’ gem that has grown in international appeal, moving from being a place people had little awareness of, to a destination now recognised for its beauty and potential.
Unveiling Local Treasures
Throughout our conversation, Aleksandra revealed how local populations are becoming increasingly aware of the treasures in their midst. The pandemic served as a turning point, with domestic tourism flourishing as locals explored breathtaking sites like the small water mills art Krupa na Vrbasu.Moreover, Aleksandra recognises tourism as a potential bridge for peace-building in a nation still healing from past divides. By sitting at the same table and collaborating on tourism itineraries, communities across ethnic lines find common ground, promoting social harmony.
Towards a Bright Future
As the interview drew to a close, Aleksandra spoke passionately about the future.
"If I had a magic wand, I would bring together local residents, creative minds, and universities to connect heritage with modern innovation"
It’s clear that Aleksandra's hope for Bosnian tourism lies in fostering collaborations that bring ancient traditions and contemporary insigh...
Next Episode
Skopje Unveiled - Stories, Cevapi, and the Soul of a City
May 18, 2025
•11m
A City of Surprises
Skopje wasn’t what I expected, and that’s what made it so special. Over three days, I explored the North Macedonian capital, peeling back its layers like pages in an old, weathered book. This episode of An Englishman in the Balkans is a personal reflection of that journey. Part travelogue, part cultural postcard.
A Bite of Tradition
One stop I couldn’t miss was Destan, a traditional restaurant tucked into the old Čaršija, the Ottoman-era heart of the city. Half a somun, chopped onions, a fiercely roasted pepper, and a bottle of old-fashioned Coca-Cola. No frills, just flavour. And somehow, in that simple dish of local Ćevapi, I felt welcomed. It’s food that speaks the language of belonging.
Skopje, Through Local Eyes
The city’s energy really came alive when I sat down with my friend Risto. His stories gave context to what I’d seen. The Stone Bridge, the juxtaposition of brutalist architecture with neoclassical facades, the slow mornings over coffee and rakija. Skopje is a city of contrasts, but its heartbeat remains constant: community, resilience, and quiet pride.
The Rhythm Beneath the Surface
There’s something about Skopje that lingers. It’s in the buzz of the cafés, the calm of the Vardar River, and the casual kindness of strangers. Despite the cranes and construction, the soul of the city, its rhythm, hasn’t changed. And that’s what I’ll take with me.
This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe
This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe
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