Beyond the Balkans
An Englishman in the Balkans
07/02/25
•18m
About
Comments
Featured In
A Little Dutch Detour: Reflections from Haarlem
Hello from the village in Bosnia and Herzegovina! Today, I want to take you on a small detour, far from the familiar rhythms of Balkan village life and into the heart of the Netherlands. Every now and then, Tamara and I like to step outside our beloved Bosnia, explore somewhere new, and bring those experiences back home with us. This time, our wandering feet took us to Haarlem, a city that completely surprised us in the most delightful ways.
Arriving in a Living Painting
Our journey started in true slow-travel fashion: a bus from Banja Luka to Zagreb, an overnight stop, and then an early flight to Amsterdam. From Schiphol Airport, my brother-in-law picked us up, and we hopped on a local bus to Haarlem. We always choose the bus when we can, it’s slower, but it lets you soak in the scenery and ease gently into a new place.
Stepping into Haarlem felt like walking into a living painting. Picture narrow streets lined with leaning old houses, flower boxes overflowing, and shimmering canals reflecting the soft northern light. It’s about the same size as Banja Luka, but with a different energy. Elegant, easygoing, and deeply historic.
Coffee and Rakija is a reader/listener/viewer supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a paid subscriber.
Discovering Dutch Ways
For Tamara, it was her first time in the Netherlands. She found herself enchanted by the details: the benches in front of each house, the hidden gardens, and the easy smiles from passersby. One thing that stood out immediately was the bicycle culture. Everyone cycles, from school kids and parents carrying toddlers to pensioners riding electric tricycles. We even saw a pensioner being pushed along in a sort of “bicycle wheelbarrow” contraption!
Crossing the street was a mini adventure itself. You had to watch out not only for cars but for the army of speedy cyclists zooming past. And let me tell you, it’s easier to get knocked over by a bike there than a car!
Life on the Water
Haarlem’s canals truly stole our hearts. Boats drift by with families dining on deck, friends clinking glasses under the bridges, and couples lazily cruising at sunset.Tamara was completely taken by this “canal culture”. If she had to pick one must-do, it would be renting a boat and gliding through the waterways, watching Haarlem unfold from the waterline.
We also loved seeing the bridges lift for huge cargo ships, marvelling at the captains’ skills as they manoeuvred these massive vessels through narrow passages. Life in Haarlem felt deeply intertwined with its water, adding a beautiful, living rhythm to the city.
Unexpected Highlights
While the canals and bikes were highlights for Tamara, three things left a big impression on me. First, the classic windmill. Nno visit to the Netherlands feels complete without one. Second, the grand cathedral where both Mozart and Handel once played; stepping inside felt like stepping into a piece of music history. And third, the old prison transformed into a creative hub with a university, cinema, and co-working spaces. The Dutch truly know how to breathe new life into old places, recycling not just materials but entire buildings.
Thanks for reading Coffee and Rakija! This post is public so feel free to share it.
A Return to Roots
Standing on the North Sea coast at Zaandvoort, feeling the chilly wind and hearing the gulls, I realised how much travel changes us. Each journey brings new colours and textures to the life we return to. By the time we said goodbye to my sister and brother-in-law and boarded our bus back to the airport, we carried back not just heavier bags but new stories and reflections that will become part of our life here in Bosnia.
Staying Curious
I share these travel “postcards” not to drift away from Bosnia, but to remind myself, and maybe you too, that curiosity doesn’t stop at any border. If you ever find yourself in the Netherlands, skip the crowded streets of Amsterdam and wander through Haarlem instead. Rent a boat, sip Jenever (the grandfather of gin), and get lost in the hidden corners.
Have you visited somewhere that changed how you see your own home? I’d love to hear about it.Thank you for tuning in to An Englishman in the Balkans.
If you enjoyed this episode, please consider subscribing to the podcast on your favourite platform so you never miss a new release. And, if you have a moment, a quick rating or review would mean the world. It really helps others discover the show.
📌 I’d also love to hear from you!
Feel free to reach out with any questions, feedback, or ideas for future episodes.
You can send comments, thoughts and suggestions to: questions@anenglishmaninthebalkans
Previous Episode
Skopje Unveiled - Stories, Cevapi, and the Soul of a City
May 18, 2025
•11m
A City of Surprises
Skopje wasn’t what I expected, and that’s what made it so special. Over three days, I explored the North Macedonian capital, peeling back its layers like pages in an old, weathered book. This episode of An Englishman in the Balkans is a personal reflection of that journey. Part travelogue, part cultural postcard.
A Bite of Tradition
One stop I couldn’t miss was Destan, a traditional restaurant tucked into the old Čaršija, the Ottoman-era heart of the city. Half a somun, chopped onions, a fiercely roasted pepper, and a bottle of old-fashioned Coca-Cola. No frills, just flavour. And somehow, in that simple dish of local Ćevapi, I felt welcomed. It’s food that speaks the language of belonging.
Skopje, Through Local Eyes
The city’s energy really came alive when I sat down with my friend Risto. His stories gave context to what I’d seen. The Stone Bridge, the juxtaposition of brutalist architecture with neoclassical facades, the slow mornings over coffee and rakija. Skopje is a city of contrasts, but its heartbeat remains constant: community, resilience, and quiet pride.
The Rhythm Beneath the Surface
There’s something about Skopje that lingers. It’s in the buzz of the cafés, the calm of the Vardar River, and the casual kindness of strangers. Despite the cranes and construction, the soul of the city, its rhythm, hasn’t changed. And that’s what I’ll take with me.
This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe
This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe
Next Episode
Echoes of Waste: From Night Soil to Bosnia’s Fields
July 6, 2025
•4m
A Morning in Rural Bosnia
The gentle hum of a tractor in the distance, birds calling to one another across the fields, and a soft breeze drifting through the village, that’s how my morning began. Living out here, far from the city’s hustle, means you become closely attuned to every part of daily life, even the parts that don’t make it onto postcards.
A Visit From the Neighbour (and His Tractor)
Yesterday, my neighbour arrived with his trusty tractor. Hitched behind it was a massive cylindrical tank and a pump.
His mission? To empty our septic tank.
Now, I realise this isn’t the sort of opening line you’d expect in a blog post, but bear with me.There’s something oddly fascinating about it!
Night Soil Men of Old England
Watching him work reminded me of an article I read not long ago about how human waste was handled in 17th and 18th century England. Back then, there were brave souls known as “night soil men”.
These men would come under the cover of darkness to shovel out waste from cesspits beneath houses. They’d load it onto carts and haul it away, often selling it to farmers as fertiliser.
It might sound grim (and it was), but these workers were vital to keeping the cities liveable and preventing the spread of disease. Without them, places like London would have been both unbearable and dangerous.
The Ottoman Take on Waste
Meanwhile, across the continent in the Ottoman Empire, including here in Bosnia, they had their own methods. Cleanliness is deeply woven into Islamic tradition, so waste disposal wasn’t just about hygiene; it had a spiritual significance too.
In cities like Istanbul and Sarajevo, waste was collected at night by workers known as “lağımcılar” They’d discreetly remove it and take it beyond the city walls
The fascinating part? Farmers referred to this waste as “altın toprak,” or “gold soil,” because it was so rich and valuable for their fields. Some even bribed collectors to get the best loads first. Imagine that, fighting over waste because it was considered a treasure!
Old Ways in Rural Bosnia
Here in rural Bosnia, things weren’t too different. Simple pit latrines, wooden outbuildings called čardaks, and composting were the norm for generations. While we now have septic tanks and tractors with pumps, the essence remains the same: nothing really just “goes away.”
Standing there in, watching the tank fill up, I felt oddly connected to this long chain of human ingenuity, from London’s night soil men to Ottoman “gold soil” farmers, all the way to my neighbour and his tractor.
Staying Grounded
In modern life, it’s easy to “flush and forget”. But living out here keeps you close to the basics. You stay aware of the cycles that sustain us and the humble, sometimes messy, realities that remind us of our shared humanity.
A Tale to Tell
Next time someone asks me why I’ve chosen this quiet, rural life in Bosnia, far from big-city conveniences and endless pipes, maybe I should tell them about that tractor, the night soil men of old London, and the Ottoman farmers who prized “gold soil.”?
It’s a story that’s a little surprising, slightly humorous, but deeply human. It reminds me that no matter where we live or which century we’re in, we’re all bound together by the same essential needs.
Thank you for tuning in to An Englishman in the Balkans.
If you enjoyed this episode, please consider subscribing to the podcast on your favourite platform so you never miss a new release. And, if you have a moment, a quick rating or review would mean the world. It really helps others discover the show.
📌 I’d also love to hear from you!
Feel free to reach out with any questions, feedback, or ideas for future episodes.
You can send comments, thoughts and suggestions to: questions@anenglishmaninthebalkans.com I reply to every mail!
This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe
This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe
If you like this episode you’ll love
Promoted